Point Mugu, California, Surfing

Southern California has a great surf break in a remote area that breaks very hollow and fast and to our knowledge has been surfed by few female surfers because of limited access and the difficulty level required by advanced surfers. Savannah spent a few weeks surfing California with the Thornsley and Wilson families warming up and chilling out during the NSSA National Championships.

Point Mugu, California Surfing Location

When I was told that I'd be surfing on a remote, restricted military base in southern California, all I could think about was white sharks, cold water and big threatening waves.  Tyler's dad had been emailing us photographs of them getting shacked for several days before I departed Florida and I was biting at the bit and ready to joust with my first U.S. west coast waves.  Josh and Amy Wilson escorted me on my plane ride from Orlando to Los Angeles Airport where we were immediately chauffeured by Kevin Thornsley on a couple of hour drive to our surfing destination. As the mile markers went by and we drew closer to Point Mugu in our rental suburban the reality that we were gonna be in great surf within a short time was making my senses tingle with nervousness.  When we were within a few miles of Mugu, Kevin started chanting... "Mugu...Mugu...Mugu...." my heart started pumping and once I spied the waves, my anxieties grew to anxiousness to surf the perfect 3 - 5 foot tubing hollow waves beaconing us on to their challenge.

Orlando's Sea World did not prepare me for swimming with the barking dogs of the lineup including sea lions, elephant seals and smaller harbor seals.  Having never surfed with seals before I was surprised that we were almost immediately inspected upon entering the water as several seals casually slipped by to check us out as if additional security for the military police.

Kevin's description of this wave seemed understated and for the first time in my life I was faced with perfect pitching waves that looked like something out of Hawaii or a surf magazine, having the strength to snap your board or your neck with a wrong decision or slip of the foot.  My goal... to get the best tube ride and go home with the story, experience and possibly photographs for Mom & dad, I had no idea how unyielding Mugu would be in taking me on my first real deep tube and possibly giving me the confidence to attack the north shore of Hawaii's Pipeline later this winter.

I sat in the lineup for what seemed like an eternity while my coach Josh took his first wave and then another.  Josh is regular footed (left foot front) and was having a difficult time negotiating his first waves backside but managed to grab a nice one and pigdog his way into a nice barrel or two by the second day.  I know Josh is out of practice on these but each successive wave and everyday he managed to get deeper and deeper into the barrel while I struggled to get the nerve to stall into the pit and disappear into a cavern of water I needed to satisfy my itch for that perfect tube.

Josh Wilson

A great start for my coach Josh Wilson in a Point Mugu barrel above. (click here to continue with my quest for the perfect tube).

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