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This was a Photo of a wave I caught at Jaccos. This wave got two thumbs up from Rolando as he said repeatedly "I like...."
Hawaii Surfing... Photography and... More Surfing...
One of the things I'm learning along the way is that life for the competitive surfer consist of very few things. Eating... Sleeping... Surfing...! And then you get to do it all over again.
Between sessions we'd go back to the villa only to find out that the Brazilian Viking men had eat us out of house and home. "Where's all the fruit that we bought this morning?" dad said, and Rolando would reply... "I like..." with a grinch type smile and a twinkle in his eye. After a few days of keeping the Brazilians from our food and waiting for Mauricio to re supply, we decided to rent a car so we could have the mobility and get the nourishment we both needed. It's been researched that a surfer can burn as much as 1000 calories an hour and my little 80 pound frame couldn't afford to lose anymore fuel.
Once we were mobile, this opened up all kinds of opportunity for us. Brazilian culture is quite different from ours in that they eat at 10pm or later and wake up and start their day MUCH later than ours. We went to sleep well before 10pm and woke up before the crack of dawn and our schedules not only conflicted but often aggravated one another. Dad's schedule was so different because of years of waking at 4:30am and going to work as a charter fisherman, this caused much tension as he made his coffee and sat on the back porch chatting with mom on the phone every morning waiting for the sun to come up. (Old habits don't die easily)
I was to find another cell mate (errr roommate) in Jenny Lopes that could relate to me having different needs than our male counterparts. Jenny didn't surf, but she took fantastic photographs and kept her tan going in the Hawaiian sun (this is important for us girls). Jenny, if you read this, thank you for your companionship.
When we got our rental car we went to the beach earlier, caught more waves and ate more food as we could supply us on demand. After all the North Shore is only seven miles long. Below, I'm walking out of the water and the photographers are calling me to get my name and ask me questions. Way more photographers on the North Shore than anywhere else on earth. Don E and Steve Terry back home would have lenses envy as nobody had less than a 600mm lenses. |
