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The Viking Surf Team (right to left)
Sergio, Darlan, Rolando, Savannah, Mauricio
Charging Sunset Beach
Nervous? Was I nervous about paddling out at the famous Sunset Beach on a double overhead day?
I watched the movie Big Wednesday with my dad and the big right that wiped out the leading man (surfer) Matt in the movie was Sunset on a BIG day. I've kept that image and footage reeling through my little mind for the weeks leading up to the trip to Hawaii and as we approached the beach and walked toward the paddleout, Mauricio's advice did not help me with my butterflies while Rolando's "I don't like" made me even more nervous.
"Savannah, I want you to ride your largest gun today at Sunset. It will be difficult to paddle into these waves and the drops will be big and late. Sunset's waves won't pound you as hard as the shallow water breaks, but they don't let you go and tumble you along for as long as you can hold your breath. I've seen you surf and you'll be fine," assured a smiling Mauricio, while Rolando kept chanting... "I don't like..." with a rich spanish accent that sounded like a latin version of Tarzan. Occasionally Rolando would variant this with... "I no like..." which sounded even more threatening as his brow scowled in concern.
"Okay! Let's paddle out!" ordered Maricio, "Keep an eye on Savannah, please." So... Paddle out we did... indeed.
Mauricio, Darlan and myself watching Sunset Beach break as we prepare for the long paddle out to the main break. They call the further right break where you take off deeper at Sunset "Boneyards". Gulp... I'll stay away from there so I don't contribute to it's reputation. |